Gel Nails: UV yay or nay?

Gel manicures are offered everywhere these days. They come in "soft" and "hard," generic and brand name and are a beautiful option for those interested in long-lasting, chip-free color that can last upward of three weeks. In fact, the idea of having perfectly polished nails that last is so popular, that some nail brands like CND Shellac and Orly GelFX have created quicker-to-apply, more natural-looking variations of the classic gel manicure to meet the demand. At-home gels have also recently hit the market.

While all these different options have features that set them apart, they all have one very important technology in common: The necessity of a UV nail lamp to cure the polish, creating that unique nail color longevity women clamor for.

With the overwhelming success of this technique and rise in use, along with the growing epidemic of skin cancer and increased awareness of the danger of UV tanning beds, the public has to wonder if repeated use of UV nail lamps is safe. Are these mini UV beds for the hands akin to the photo-aging and cancer-causing UV tanning beds doctors strongly advise against?

In 2009, the report "Occurrence of Nonmelanoma Skin Cancers on the Hands After UV Nail Light Exposure" from the Departments of Dermatology and Plastic Surgery at The University of Texas, stated that exposure to UV nail lights is a risk factor for the development of skin cancer. In contrast, an independent study published by the Nail Manufacturers Council found that the UV exposure from UV nail lamps is not similar to the exposure from a UV tanning bed, and if administered by a professional twice a month, is no more harmful than spending around 26 extra seconds in natural sunlight.

Melbourne, FL, dermatologist Anita Saluja, MD, agrees with the latter. "It appears that UV nail lights do not pose the same risk that tanning beds pose in terms of skin cancer." Meaning, the average person, exposed to UV nail lamps twice a month is not in danger of developing melanoma. "If someone were highly sensitive to ultraviolet light (had a condition such as skin lupus), then sunscreen on their hands prior to this treatment might make sense, but for the majority of patients who are intermittently exposed for a few minutes at a time, the current thought is that there should be no need for extra protection (sunscreen)," says the doctor.

by Anna Jimenez, Senior Interactive Editor New Beauty

Is your SPF legit?

Wait - you might say - aren’t there responsible scientists testing all these sunscreens? Yes, but that doesn’t mean your bottle is telling you the whole truth. Here’s what to look for on the label.

1. Does your sunscreen protect against sunburn- and cancer-causing UVB rays?
If it doesn’t, it’s probably not allowed to be called “sunscreen.” Anything with an SPF number on the bottle contains ingredients that shield against UVB. SPF 15 buys you 15 times more sun exposure before you burn - but the catch is, it only stays effective on skin for about 2 hours. SPF 15 screens out 93 percent of UVB rays; SPF 30, 97 percent; and SPF 50, 98 percent.

2. Does it protect against aging and cancer-causing UVA rays?
Here’s where things get tricky. In the US, there are currently no legal guidelines for UVA protection on sunscreen labels. “Broad-spectrum” is a term used by many manufacturers to denote UVA & UVB protection, but it’s not regulated - and it doesn’t specify how much UVA protection you’re getting. What's more, there are two types of UVA wavelengths: UVA1 and UVA2. Your sunscreen should protect against both.

3. Does it contain UVA-protective ingredients?
Of the FDA-approved sunscreen ingredients, only about half protect against UVA at all. And only zinc oxide protects against the full range of UVA1 and UVA2; the rest should be combined with complementary ingredient to hit all the wavelengths. Here’s a chart from the Skin Cancer Foundation:

4. How effective are those UVA blockers?
The FDA has proposed new guidelines to measure effectiveness of UVA sunscreens, but the regulations remain in limbo. However, there are UVA protection scales used in other countries, and you might see them on products sold stateside. (Just remember, no agency in the United States is regulating these claims.)
The PA(+) rating system was developed in Japan and is used throughout Asia. You'll find PA ratings on brands like Shiseido, AmorePacific, 3LAB, Elizabeth Arden and Stri-Vectin. Here's what those ratings mean:
PA+: some UVA protection
PA++: moderate UVA protection
PA+++: high UVA protection

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In the US, the independent nonprofit Skin Cancer Foundation has adopted new standards for its sunscreen Seal of Recommendation. By May 2012, all sunscreens with the seal must have a PPD of 10 or higher. (Currently, the seal is awarded to any product with an SPF over 15.)

5. Is it chemical or physical?
Chemical sunscreens rely on a chemical reaction to block UV; physical sunblocks create a barrier between rays and skin. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are physical filters; almost every other sunscreen ingredient is chemical. Both types can provide broad-spectrum protection, though some people are sensitive to chemical formulas.

6. Is your sunscreen waterproof?
Trick question. There is no truly waterproof sunscreen, and even though you might see the word “waterproof” on labels, its use is unregulated. The FDA currently approves sunscreens as “water resistant” (40 minutes of activity in water) or “very water resistant” (80 minutes of activity). Towel-drying isn’t included in the test, so assume that toweling off wipes away most of your protection.

Try our Environ Sunscreen that has everything you will need to keep safe from the sun this summer!

Call Renovus for your sunscreen needs! 423.207.0154

How you should really wash your face

Most of us assume that cleansing is a task so basic it can be accomplished even when you're completely exhausted or slightly tipsy — which, of course, it can. But with all the latest options (lotions, milks, foaming mousses, oils, wipes, motorized brushes) and antiaging ingredients to consider, there's a lot more to it than soap and water, says Dr. Doris Day, NYC dermatologist and author of Forget the Facelift. "With so many sophisticated, gentle cleansers that won't strip the skin, using the right one allows moisturizing and antiaging products to absorb more effectively." Clearly, an old-school splash and scrub won't do. Here, the new rules for getting your freshest face.

Myth 1: WASH AND GO It's more of a two-step process. "Remove your makeup before you wash your face," says Montclair, New Jersey, derm Dr. Jeanine Downie. "Many cleansers can't take off concealer or foundation completely, especially around the eyes and nose." Use an oil-based cream, an emollient wipe, or a cleansing oil to dissolve stubborn sunscreen and makeup. Follow with lukewarm water and a dime-size amount of cleanser (look for the ingredients cocamidopropyl betaine or caprylic triglyceride, which are sulfate-free surfactants) on your fingers or a clean, damp washcloth. Rinse and dry with a soft paper towel if you're acne-prone.

Myth 2: WASH TWICE A DAY While the jury is still out on how often to cleanse (every a.m. and p.m. or just once at night), all derms agree that over-washing can lead to irritation and a lack of moisture. The rule is to use common sense: Always wash your face after a workout to prevent breakouts, and wash excessively oily skin morning and night. For very dry or sensitive skin, stick to cleansing once daily in the evening.

Myth 3: CLOSE YOUR PORES Sorry, folks, but you can skip rituals like massaging your face to increase circulation or splashing with cold water to "close" your pores. "Pores don't open and close," says Downie. In fact, extreme hot or cold can exacerbate problems like rosacea and redness. That said, mild steam can help soften hardened oil in pores, so it's never a bad idea to cleanse in the shower. And "while it feels nice, massage doesn't do much," adds Downie. "Exercise is what boosts your circulation."

Myth 4: BUY CLEANSER ACCORDING TO SKIN TYPE No matter what kind of skin you have, make sure the ingredients list doesn't contain fragrance, which can be irritating; parabens (potentially toxic preservatives); or harsh soap (it's drying). "If a cleanser fits that bill, the formula itself [cream, lotion, foaming, etc.] is more a matter of personal preference," says NYC dermatologist Dr. Brad Katchen. Of course, people with dry skin may prefer formulas with added moisturizers, like glycerin or shea butter. And "if you have oily skin, you might want a foaming wash that leaves skin feeling superclean," says Day.

Myth 5: SCRUB TO EXFOLIATE AND SMOOTHA salicylic- or glycolic-acid cleanser is gentler and more effective than grainy scrubs, and both offer antiaging benefits and help prevent breakouts. Alternate with your regular wash (start with three times a week), and adjust depending on how your skin is looking and feeling.

Myth 6: USE TONER "An alcohol-based toner strips off natural oils," explains Day. Not good. "Gentle toners calm the skin and balance pH levels, but with the right cleanser, you don't really need this step." Love the feeling anyway? Choose gentle, alcohol-free versions.

Myth 7: BRUSH YOUR SKIN TO A GLOW EVERY DAY "A brush removes oil, dirt, and dead skin better than your hands can, and it's less aggressive than most exfoliating cleansers or scrubs," says Day. "But it's not something you have to use every night, especially if you're also applying ingredients like retinoids or acids. Too much exfoliation can cause inflammation." Basically: Use, but use sparingly.  To keep your brush bacteria-free, rinse and air-dry after use. Oh, and hey, clean freak, like you do with your Brita, replace the brush head every three months.

Myth 8: SPEND A FORTUNE Save your pricier ingredients, like retinol or antioxidants, for leave-on products instead of washing them down the drain. "They're most effective when they stay concentrated on the skin," says Katchen.

To get in a proper fash washing routine, call Renovus today to see our skin experts! 423.207.0154

Marie Claire

The Brow Effect

FIND YOUR PERFECT BROW SHAPE

Eyebrows can change the entire look of your face, depending on the shape, width, color and length. The best guideline for do-it-yourself maintenance is to stick with the shape you were born with. Although eyebrow trends can range from thin to thick to nearly nonexistent, it’s best to keep these varying looks for the fashion runways.

Using an eyebrow brush or spoolie (looks like the end of a mascara wand), brush eyebrows upward and out. Carefully trim any stray hairs with a scissor. Brush hairs back into place.

For shape, the eyebrows should start where the inner corner of your eye starts. Hold a pencil vertically against the nose to the inner corner of the eye. Where the pencil hits the eyebrow is where your brow should start. Tweeze any hairs that lay inside of that area, and also in between the brows.

Next, determine the highest point of your arch. Using the pencil, hold it diagonally against your nostril and “connect” it to the outer edge of the iris, or the colored part of the eye. Where the pencil touches your brow is where the highest point of the arch should be. Pluck from the bottom edge to create your shape.

Finally, use the same pencil trick again and hold it from your nostril to the outer edge of the eye. The point where the brow touches the pencil is where the brow should end.

Remember to tweeze sparingly, and stop after a few hairs to inspect your work. A couple of hairs here and there can make a huge difference, and you want to make sure your brows are still even. Don’t tweeze from the bulk of the hair, which could result in uneven patches.

The best way to get the perfect eyebrows for your face shape is to have your brows shaped by the expert estheticians at Renovus Medical Spa. We'll shape your brows perfectly every time for only $15. We also perform eyebrow and eyelash tinting ($20). Tint lasts 2 weeks and comes in several colors, allowing you to have amazing looking lashes and eyebrows even when you're not wearing makeup! Call for your all of your brow concerns! 423.207.0154

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Sip This

Lemon and water are a match made in heaven... I’ve started drinking it every day and feel more energized than ever. After learning about the slew of health benefits associated with drinking water and freshly squeezed lemon juice, I decided to make it a part of my daily diet. Lemons are packed with natural vitamins and minerals that are key to your inner and outer beauty regime as well as your general health.

Here are three reasons why you should pair hot water with lemons ladies:

1. It’s a natural energizer! It hydrates and oxygenates the body so it feels revitalized and refreshed.
2. It’s cleansing. According to NaturalNews.com, the citric acid in lemons helps maximize enzyme function, which stimulates the liver and aids in detoxification.
3. It aids in digestion. Not only will this killer combination relive indigestion, it will also help flush you out.

image from laurenconrad.com

Beauty Buzz

Looking to smooth your neck?

Your neck appears saggy with vertical and horizontal lines (called banding), and red spots

that are most likely due to years of sun exposure. 

At home advice: There's not much you can do for banding, sagging and redness caused by dilated blood vessels due to sun damage.  We advice using sunscreen and collagen-stimulated products.

Derm solutions:  To reduce deep lines that run from the jaw to the clavicle, Dysport works really well.  For sagging, Dr. Clemons first paralyzes the neck muscles with Dysport injections followed by an Ulthera treatment one week later to "heat the deeper layers of skin," he says.  To reverse pigment, some doctors will combine IPL and CORE resurfacing.  Two to three treatments yields the best results. 

If you are interested or have any questions, please call our office today to schedule a free consult 423.207.0154

copy from harpers bazaar

Anti-Age Yourself

WHAT CAUSES AGING?

Like death and taxes, aging is something we all go through eventually–nips, tucks, Spinning classes, and green juices notwithstanding. And yet you can keep the effects of aging at arm's length, enjoying many more vibrant, healthy years looking fabulous than generations before. The question is not, How will I age? but, How much can I slow it down? From exercise and diet to supplements and brain training, here are the most effective ways to hold back the hands of time.
First, let's ID the enemy. Scientists are continuing to isolate the main causes of aging (beyond the mere passage of time), and keeping each one in mind as you make daily choices will make a world of difference.
TO START, THERE'S OXIDATION
which occurs when too many free radicals (a normal by-product of metabolism) go unchecked, leading to stressed tissues and weakened organs. Think of oxidation as a bit like rust on a bike. Without proper intervention–like antioxidants–free radicals can make your system rather worn-out and creaky.
NEXT, INFLAMMATION
particularly the whole-body, low-level inflammation that is associated with heart disease, mental decline, and arthritis. Excess weight, stress, and poor diet can all cause inflammation.
THIRD, GLYCATION
a process wherein sugar molecules attach to protein molecules, resulting in damaged, more inflexible tissue. This can not only lead to wrinkles but also hamper the working of internal organs.
FINALLY, LOOK TO YOUR DNA
Specifically, to the very tips of each strand, called telomeres. Emerging science (which garnered the Nobel Prize in 2009) has found a link between short telomere length and increased signs of aging. (Each time a cell divides, the telomeres erode further.) Many factors can hasten the shortening process, but a few habits can help keep strands long and strong.

Read more: Anti-Age Your Body April 2012 - How To Slow Aging - Harper's BAZAAR

image from harpersbazaar.com